Cheese In Depth Series
Experience Cheese
Cheese in Depth: Washed Rind Cheese
Aromatic and Addictive
Welcome to Part Six of the “Cheese In Depth” Series. Previously, we explored the decadent and delicious world of Soft Ripened Cheese. Next, we’ll take a closer look at the delectable realm of funky, stinky cheeses – the Washed Rind style.
As a child, I remember watching Pepe LePew and his tray of cheese with curlicue tendrils of stink rising up. Today, I’m sure the cheese on his tray must have been a member of the Washed Rind family.
For the uninitiated, the aroma -- which can range from mildly earthy to musty old gym socks -- can be quite disconcerting. Is it supposed to smell like that? Absolutely!
For those in the know, these cheeses are sublime gems of cheesemaking artistry, suffused with the most complex, earthy, savory flavors imaginable and a soft, yielding texture that is sheer bliss.
Washed rind cheeses are also known as Monastic cheeses because they were first produced over 700 years ago in the Monasteries and Abbeys of Northern Europe, especially the Alsace and Burgundy region of France. The cheeses were a full-flavored meat substitute for hungry parishioners during a time when there were over 100 meatless “fast” days on the Catholic calendar.
The production of washed rind cheeses is similar to that of Soft Ripened cheeses. Small rounds of curd are formed and matured in aging caves with constant cool temperature and high humidity. During aging, cheeses are repeatedly brushed off and washed or smeared with a solution of salt and a liquid such as water, beer, brandy or marc and beneficial bacteria.
This washing process maintains the moisture level on the surface of the cheese, preventing it from drying out. It also allows a particular bacterium, brevibacterium linens or b. linens for short, to flourish. It is the growth of this bacteria that ripens the cheese from the outside inward and gives the cheese its pronounced aroma and orange hued rind.
Cheeses of this style tend to be diminutive – ranging from half a pound to about 4 pounds. The smaller format allows the cheese to properly ripen during the affinage or aging period, which typically lasts 4 – 8 weeks.
The French have a cadre of Washed Rind cheeses of which they can be very proud. Any exploration of the category would benefit from the sampling of France’s top stinkers: Livarot (lee-VAH-roh), Muenster d’Alsace (mun-STER dal-saze) and Epoisses (eh-PWAS).
Livarot is a small, round cheese that is also known as the Colonel because of the three small bands of raffia which encircle the cheese to give it form and structure as the cheese ages.
Munster d’Alsace is what deli Muenster wishes it could be. Meaty, full-flavored and rich with notes of sweet cream and grass.
Epoisses is a small, round cheese that comes in its own box. As the cheese ages, it becomes decidedly runny and the box contains the cheese. If the cheese is particularly ripe, simply spoon it out of the container onto crusty bread. Divine!
Italy, too, has its share of wonderful washed rinds, Taleggio (tah-LEDGE-eoh) and Brescianella (breh-shah-NELLA) being two favorites. Taleggio is a 4 pound square cheese that has succulent meaty, fruity and salty flavors in equal measure. Brescianella is a true treat and, to me, is like Taleggio on steroids with an abundance of flavor and an incredible silken texture.
With any Washed Rind cheese, you’ll want to remember a few things – first, they do not taste like they smell. Enjoy the nuance of flavor and marvel at the power of the aroma. Also, try the interior paste of the cheese first. If you’d like more flavor, try a bit of the rind. Often, there are off flavors or a gritty texture in the rind so go slow and see if you like it.
Because of the high moisture content, these cheeses are particularly prone to going off. If they smell strongly of ammonia or the rind appears dry, cracked or overly slimy, chances are the cheese is past its prime. It pays to seek out a good cheesemonger who will steer you in the right direction and it is unlikely cheeses of this type will be for sale in mainstream stores anyway.
While not for the faint of heart, the Washed Rind cheeses present an incredible opportunity to savor a wide variety of flavors in one magnificent food. They pair particularly well with Alsatian style Rieslings that have a hint of residual sweetness. Alternately, a smooth, low-tannin red wine would work.