Cheese In Depth Soft Cheese

Cheese In Depth Series

Cheese In Depth explores various aspects of cheese, from the pasture to your plate. Each segment covers a particular topic and invites you to explore further with “homework” in the form of three suggested cheese and beverage pairings.

Milk Matters
The First Steps in Cheesemaking
From Curd to Edible Art
Fresh Cheese
Soft Ripened Cheese
Washed Rind Cheese
Semi-Soft Cheeses
Aged Cheeses
Grana and Melting Cheeses
Best of Blue

Experience Cheese

Because of the high moisture content, these cheeses can go from sublime to over the hill in a matter of days. This is where it pays to know a good cheesemonger who can steer you toward a cheese that will please your palate.

If you aren’t so fortunate to have a great cheesemonger at hand, you’ll have to do some sleuthing yourself.

As you choose a cheese, engage all your senses:

• Look at the rind – it should be white or off-white with brownish or tan areas as the cheese ages. It should not have rust, black or pinkish areas and the cheese should look plump, not sunken in the center.

• Feel the cheese – it should feel soft and yielding, like a perfectly ripe peach. The outer edges should not feel hard or show visible cracking.

• Smell the cheese -- The cheese should smell a bit musty and may have a hint of ammonia which is a natural by-product of the ripening process of the cheese. Unwrap the cheese and allow it to breathe for 5 minutes. If the cheese still smells of ammonia, it is a sure sign it is past its prime.

Cheese in Depth: Soft Ripened

Soft Cheeses with a Rind are a Tasty, Flavorful Find.

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Welcome to Part Five of the “Cheese In Depth” Series. Earlier, we explored the nuanced and refreshing world of unaged and rindless Fresh Cheese. Now we’ll take a closer look at soft cheeses with a rind.

Brie. Camembert. Soft Ripened. Those funny looking cheeses with the velvety white rind. Whatever you call these mysterious and tasty cheeses, they are easy to spot on a cheese plate and provide the perfect opportunity to explore a variety of aroma, flavor and texture profiles contained in this decadent style of cheese.

The history of Brie is firmly planted in the Seine et Marne region around Paris where it has been produced for hundreds of years. According to legend, the Emperor Charlemagne became a fan after savoring Brie in the 8th Century. In 1814, the French statesman Talleyrand organized a cheese tasting to break the tension during negotiations at the Congress of Vienna. Each participating country presented its finest cheese and, at the end of the day, Brie was crowned “Le Roi du Fromage,” the King of Cheese.

Today, there are only two “true” Brie cheeses in production – Brie de Meaux and Brie du Melun. Both have been granted AOC (controlled origin) status in France but because they are produced traditionally with raw milk and not aged over 60 days, you’ll have to travel to Europe to savor “true” Brie. Luckily for us, there are some darn good Brie style cheeses widely available here in the US, many using the same recipe but using gently pasteurized milk to ensure great flavor.

Camembert, a diminutive cousin of Brie, was first produced in the coastal, Normandy region of France. Legend has it that a priest escaping the Reign of Terror in Paris took refuge with a farmer in Normandy. In exchange for sanctuary, the priest taught the farmer’s wife how to make Brie. She quickly became adept at producing the cheese in a smaller form using coastal Normandy milk which was higher in salt and a brand new cheese was born.

Both Brie and Camembert are made in a similar fashion using fresh cow’s milk. After coagulation, curds are drained and gently ladled into forms. Aging takes place in a cool, humid environment over the course of 2 to 4 weeks during which time the traditional downy, white mold grows on the exterior of the cheese.

This mold, penicillium candidum or penicillium camemberti, is the agent that transforms the bland, rubbery young curd into the delicious, buttery and spreadable cheese. One of the most fascinating things about this cheese is that you can see the aging process at work. Because the cheese ripens from the outside inward, there is often a layer just beneath the rind that is soft and almost oozing surrounding a firm interior “heart”.

There are three decidedly unique flavor and texture profiles in the resulting cheese. The heart of the cheese will be denser and sweeter. The soft, spreadable area just beneath the rind will have an earthy, salty flavor. The rind adds a toothsome texture and a variety of nuanced flavors to the cheese.

The flavor of the cheese will range from slightly sweet and creamy to earthy and musty. Many people note fried-egg, hazelnut or garlicy notes. Each cheese is unique and will exhibit seasonal variations as well. If you enjoy buttery, rich cheeses, be sure to check out the Triple Crème selections, made with milk enriched with cream and resulting in a palate coating, truly decadent treat.

With all soft ripened cheeses, the rind is a particular storehouse of flavor, sometimes pleasant and sometimes not, depending on your particular palate. When tasting the cheese, begin with the interior paste only and then try the rind to add a new dimension.

A word on rinds: if you enjoy the flavor, go for it. If not, there is no shame in cutting it away. One caveat: cut a wedge of cheese, rind included, trimming the rind away on your own plate. Digging out the center of the cheese and leaving a sunken layer of rind on the platter is a major cheese faux-pas.

For homework, check out some stars in the world of soft-ripened cheese. Be sure to have crusty bread, crisp apples and grapes on hand to cleanse your palate. Fresh strawberries make a great seasonal accompaniment, too.

Camembert de Normandy – Splurge on a true Normandy Camembert, 8 ounces of deliciousness. Enjoy with an earthy red wine.

Brie – Look for a gently pasteurized French brie or an American soft-ripened specimen. Enjoy with Bordeaux style wines or an Oregon Pinot Noir.

Triple Crème – Pierre Robert, Brillat Savarin, St. Andre – just a few of the amazing triple crèmes out there. Indulge with Champagne or sparkling wine with this cheese. Incredible!