Cheese In Depth Series
Experience Cheese
Cheese in Depth: Semi-Soft Cheeses
Buttery, Mild and Addictive
Welcome to Part Seven of the “Cheese In Depth” Series. In the last installment, we explored the delectable realm of funky, stinky cheeses – the Washed Rind style. Now it’s time to move on to something a bit more subdued, the semi-soft cheeses.
Usually when I tell people what I do, I’m met with an unabashed “I love cheese!” Every so often, though, someone confesses that they don’t really like cheese. Among those rare few, there are some genuine caseophobes who will not be swayed. For most, though, I believe they just haven’t met the right cheese.
Because we are not part of a culture with a history of savoring a wide variety of cheeses, many people harbor secret fears of rinds or blue veining or pungent, aromatic qualities.
My mantra is that there’s a cheese for everyone -- though not everyone will like every cheese. As an educator and advocate for good cheese, I look at it like a mystery waiting to be solved.
As I begin my sleuthing for the perfect match for the timid taster, I often look to the mellow and satisfying flavors of the semi-soft cheeses as a gateway to gastronomic pleasure. These cheeses reflect the best qualities of fresh milk and can be a stepping stone to bolder, more intense flavors.
With their gentle sweetness and buttery nuances, the semi-soft flavor profile is pleasant and the texture is familiar, making it an ideal starting point for exploration for those resistant few who have yet to be charmed by cheese.
The production of semi-soft cheeses begins with coagulation of the milk with the addition of an acid called rennet. When the milk has reached a semi-solid state, the curd-mass is cut into cubes of varying sizes, depending on the cheese being produced. Larger cuts equal softer, moister cheese as less surface area is exposed to release moisture. Cutting traps protein and fat, releasing liquid whey and forming curds..
Curds are then salted, drained and scooped into molds and gently pressed to squeeze out additional moisture. Wheels of cheese can be soaked in a brine solution to add flavor and toughen a rind or wheels may simply aged for two weeks to two months to reach their ideal flavor profile and consistency.
Cheeses of this style are rindless or dipped in wax, weighing in between 4 and 12 pounds and shaped in wheel or loaf format. Because of their high moisture content, semi-soft cheeses are meant to be aged and consumed fairly quickly.
It is exactly because of the high moisture content and limited aging period that the semi-soft cheeses are so mild and delicate in flavor. The more a cheese is aged, the more moisture is lost, thus concentrating the flavor and producing a firmer-textured final cheese. As a general rule, rindless cheeses with a soft, malleable texture will be mild in flavor.
Some of the best-known cheeses in America come from the semi-soft category. Monterey Jack is an American Original, first made by Franciscan monks in California in the 1700s. It was a version of the Spanish cheese queso de pais.
In 1882, businessman David Jacks of Monterey, California began shipping the cheese to San Francisco via ship and later rail. Boxes of the cheese would be labeled Jacks, Monterey, a moniker that was easily shortened to Monterey Jack. As customers asked for the cheese by name, production grew around the state and, today, it remains one of the most popular and well known of the California cheeses.
Havarti (ha-VAR-tee) is a Danish cheese named for the farm on which it was first produced. It is now commonly made in Denmark and throughout the world. The style is defined by the semi-soft texture with random holes throughout the paste contributing to a lacey appearance.
Some versions of the cheese are enriched with extra cream, resulting in a very rich and decadent mouthfeel. Often Havarti will be flavored with herbs, spices or vegetables for additional flavor.
Fontina (fawn-TINA) is an Italian cheese with deep roots stemming back to the 12th century. The original cheese was made in the mountainous val d’Aosta region and is still produced there. However, much of the Fontina we enjoy today comes from Denmark, Sweden, France or the US.
The cheese is smooth and fruity with random round holes or eyes in the dense, soft paste. The exterior is often coated in red wax to maintain the proper moisture content during the aging process.
With any Semi-soft cheese, you’ll want to consume opened cheeses within 5 - 7 days. Cheeses with a high moisture content often show signs of white or green mold growth after the first week or two. If this appears, simply cut away visible mold, removing at least ¼” of the affected cheese for best flavor. Be sure to wrap opened cheeses securely with wax or parchment paper as even a bit of exposure to air will dry out the cheese.
While not the most glamorous or sophisticated cheeses in the case, semi-soft cheeses are the ideal starter cheeses for those unfamiliar with the incredible flavors and textures available. Begin here with the timid taster in your life and, soon enough, they’ll be moving on to more complex and intriguing varieties.