Cheese In Depth Series
Experience Cheese
Cheese in Depth: From Curd to Edible Art
Creating Styles of Cheese
Welcome to Part 3 of the “Cheese In Depth” series. In the last installment, we looked at the initial stages of cheesesmaking, from the handling of the milk through coagulation.
Now we take it a step further, exploring the various ways the milk solids or proteins (also known as curd) are handled to produce literally hundreds of varieties of cheese. It is incredible to consider that a few simple ingredients – milk, cultures, rennet and salt – can be transformed into so many distinctly original and delicious cheeses. The myriad of flavors and textures is simply astounding.
Just how do those textures and flavors come about? The type of milk and cultures used will impact the final flavor. However, how curd is handled after coagulation is an even more important factor in the final flavor and texture profile of the resulting cheese.
As with the earlier stages of cheesemaking, most cheeses undergo a very similar production path, with subtle variations along the way with each imparting unique characteristics.
After coagulation, the curd is semi-solid, similar to very soft-set jello. At the molecular level, milk fat and liquid are trapped in a protein matrix that forms when the rennet is added. The next step is the cutting of the curd which helps it separate into -- cue Little Miss Muffet -- curds and whey.
To cut the curd, the cheesemaker uses knives or a cheese “harp,” an instrument with blades at regular intervals that cuts the curd in to small cubes. Cutting the curd increases the exposed surface area and allows the liquid whey to easily drain and causing the curd to compact. The size of the cut determines the moisture level of the final cheese: the smaller the cube, the more whey is released and the drier the resulting cheese.
When making a soft cheese like Brie, curds are cut in larger cubes and handled gently to maintain the high moisture content. After draining, curds are carefully ladled into perforated cheese forms where they release additional moisture and take on their final shape. New cheeses are flipped often in the first few hours to ensure even drainage.
To achieve a semi-firm cheese like Havarti, curds are cut to hazelnut size and drained before being pressed into forms, using a less intense pressure than with harder cheeses to maintain an open, lacy texture between the curds.
Harder cheeses like Cheddar undergo a unique “cheddaring” process, during which the drained curds are cut and stacked on top of each other, causing curds to mat together from the gentle pressure of the stacking. This process, along with a more rigorous pressing, results in a dense, compact cheese with no holes.
To make an age-worthy cheese like Gruyère or Parmigiano Reggiano, much of the moisture must be removed. The cheesemaker cuts the curds very finely and, after cutting, raises the temperature on the vat so that curds are “cooked” in the whey, releasing even more moisture. The process is similar to cooking scrambled eggs – as heat is applied, the proteins contract and moisture is lost. At the end of the cooking process, the curds will knit together and be ready for forming, pressing and extended aging.
Harder cheeses with a rind are often soaked in a salt water brine bath which toughens the rind, flavors the cheese and draws out moisture. The brine bath can last several hours to upwards of 20 days, depending on the cheese.
Next, cheeses proceed to the aging room, a temperature and humidity controlled environment that meets the special needs of each particular type of cheese. It is during the aging process that the rind develops, protecting the interior of the cheese.
Softer cheeses like Brie will spend less time in the aging room, several weeks at most, as the velvety white exterior mold develops and ripens the interior paste.
Firmer cheeses are aged from several weeks to several years, depending on the variety. This is not a passive process. Aging is a make it or break it part of cheese production. Without proper aging, a great cheese can easily be rendered inedible.
Trained specialists called affineurs carefully tend the cheese, turning it often, brushing or wiping the exterior to remove mold growth and to promote development of a particular rind. Some cheeses are washed with a brine solution or rubbed with oil to keep the rind supple.
From the preliminary stages of cheesemaking through coagulation and aging, each phase must work together seamlessly to produce exceptional cheese.
Now that we’ve covered the basics of cheese production, from the pasture to the aging room, we’ll delve deep into the various styles of cheese in future installments.