Cheese in Depth: Aging with Delectable Dignity

Aged Cheese Demands Resect for its Long, Alluring Life-Span

Welcome to the ongoing “Cheese In Depth” series. Last time, we explored the realm of semi-soft cheeses: often mild, buttery cheeses with subtle charms. This month, it’s on to, by far, the largest category of cheese, the aged cheeses.

Also called pressed cheeses, the broad category of aged cheeses takes up the most real estate in any cheese case. And with good reason -- not only are these cheeses compelling and totally addictive, they are hardy creatures that have an incredibly long lifespan. Their almost miraculous keeping properties were a boon in the days before refrigeration, as aged cheeses hold their flavor and form over months and even years.

Like wine, cheese is one of the very few foods that, in the hands of a skilled affineur, improves in flavor with age. Cheeses in this style are aged at least 3-4 months and up to 5 years or more, with an average age between 9 and 12 months. This time span shows a peak of flavor for many aged cheeses. The texture variations are almost as varied as the flavor profiles, from dense and creamy to hard and almost granular. Both flavor and texture stem directly from the recipe and are greatly influenced by the time spent aging.

Aged cheeses begin their life similar to every other cheese style. Fresh milk is coagulated and, in the case of aged cheese, curds are cut into small cubes about the size of a dice. Drained curds are pressed into molds, often using mechanical presses that exert the perfect level of force to squeeze out additional moisture and form the cheese.

The goal throughout the make-process is to reduce the amount of moisture present, making the cheese suitable for long aging. High moisture cheeses ripen more quickly and go from perfection to over-the-hill much more quickly.

Cheeses are aged cool, humid rooms with a cave-like feeling and, over time, develop an exterior rind. Some, like Farmhouse Cheddar, may be wrapped in muslin for a “cloth bound” exterior. Others, like Manchego and Gouda, may receive a wax coating. Still others will develop a natural rind as the exterior is rubbed with oil or brine to keep naturally-occurring molds in check.

Throughout the aging process, cheeses are carefully tended, brushed and turned regularly to ensure even moisture distribution. Over time, the cheese will become firmer, denser and harder as it loses moisture. Flavors and aromas become concentrated, yielding a complex and savory cheese.

Many countries have their own contribution to this category with some stand-outs including: English Farmhouse Cheddar, Spanish Manchego and Dutch Gouda.

Beyond the name, English Farmhouse Cheddar bares little resemblance to what we think of as Cheddar. English Farmhouse Cheddar has been made in southwestern England for centuries. Traditionally, cheeses are made into 18 pound drum-shaped wheels which are wrapped in muslin cloth which protects the cheese and allows it to breathe during aging. The resulting cheese has a deep, golden color and a dense paste which breaks easily, revealing a beautifully rough-hewn surface.

The flavor is distinctive and earthy with a well-balanced acidity and richness leading to an exceedingly long finish. Though traditionally paired with beer, Farmhouse Cheddar plays nicely with Pinot Noir.

Manchego is a cheese steeped in Spanish history and culture, even garnering a mention in Cervantes’ Don Quixote (1605). Manchego is a sheep’s milk classic, made in the vast central plains of the La Mancha region of Spain. The cheese has a unique herringbone pattern on the rind, reminiscent of traditional cheese forms used to make the cheese, baskets woven from local esparto grass.

With its rich, oily paste that ranges from off-white to a light yellow, Manchego is often love-at-first-bite. Nutty and savory with slight herbal notes and a satisfying texture which, at room temperature, often “weeps” beads of oil in the surface, the cheese is available in several different ages – 4 months, 6 months and 12 months. Enjoy with a full bodied red like Tempranillo

The Dutch have been masters of dairy production since reclaiming land from the sea using dikes, a feat that resulted in development of prime pasture land. The most famous Dutch cheese, Gouda, was such a cultural touchpoint, it was once used as a form of currency in the Netherlands.

Gouda is available in a variety of ages and stages. Don’t bother with the mild and milquetoast “red wax” type. Instead, go directly for a 6, 12 or 18 month specimen which boast a progressively more deep amber color and a bolder, more concentrated flavor that is unexpectedly sweet with notes of whiskey, caramel and butterscotch. Older examples may contain crunchy bits of crystallized amino acids, a sign of good aging. Serve with a bold red like Cabernet Sauvignon or Zinfandel or a fortified wine like Tawny Port.

However the exploration of Aged Cheese begins, it’s sure to surprise and thrill. It is part of the magic of cheese that simple, similar ingredients – milk, rennet, culture and salt – along with a skilled cheesemaker, could possibly result in such an incredible diversity of flavor and complexity. Savoring the many unique aged cheeses, both imported and home grown, can easily become a life-long adventure in good taste.

Next we’ll delve a bit deeper into the mysteries of aged cheese, looking at the Grana and cooked-curd cheeses that are made for melting.